3am, a week-end in May: The London student is in the library, preparing for exams, or awake in bed, thinking of said exams. Meanwhile, a student in Toulouse is on the banks of the river Garonne, playing on the guitar or spinning fire poi to the beats of African drumming.

Famously known as the “Pink City” for its brick architecture, Toulouse is France’s second biggest student city after Paris. Young people fill the city’s cafés; they have ownership of the banks of the river, and are the keepers of the city at night. When the summer term is over, the city empties, the parks no longer host picnics, the restaurants and bars serve only tourists and the streets are devoid of nocturnal bike-races.

Toulouse differs enormously from London in its student life. There the priority is not education or work, but making the most of your free time – passing the hours with friends, enjoying the city’s night-life and taking advantage of the warm weather.

Having experienced six months of university strikes in the city I was, just like all the other international students, at first outraged by the lack of structure in the higher education system. But I soon fell into the rhythm of a carefree life, and used my “extended summer holiday” (as the other students liked to call it) to get to know the city as a local. I learnt to stroll, as opposed to my usual power-walking. I learnt to sit in cafés for hours, chatting to friends, which made a nice change to a quick-fix lunch in-between lectures. I learnt to appreciate wine with food, instead of drinking it by the bottle on a night out.

As a visitor, it is easy to pick up the city’s casual yet lively vibe. Trainers, baggy trousers, flip flops and long dresses are favourites amongst the laid-back students of this southern city. Everyone smokes and no-one talks about quitting. In the centre, everyone gets around by foot or by bike. Pedestrians take over the narrow streets, and cars and mopeds patiently drive around them. There is a bike-renting system in place, which means that you can hop on and hop off a bike at any of the bike stations dispersed around the city. This takes less time, and can also be cheaper, than the metro or buses (the first half an hour on the rented bikes is free).

Despite its relatively small size, Toulouse never lacks animation or activity. Cultural and creative events run throughout the year; one of my favourites is La Capitade. On the last week-end in May, musicians and poets, acrobats and actors, writers and astronomers come together on the main square, la Place du Capitole, to share their work with the public. This event is open to everyone; all you have to do to take part is to sign yourself up for it. Sofas and chairs are placed in circles on the square so that passers-by can join in, moving from one performance to another.

However, the most anticipated festival of all is the annual music festival La Fête de la Musique each June. The city transforms into an outdoor live-music venue. Any musician can set up his band on the street and play out his heart’s desire. On one end of the street you’ll find a house covered in fairy lights and a girl playing jazz on the piano. Turn the corner and you come across a group of guys with long hair energetically waving their guitars and singing about contemporary French society. One block up: a huge speaker is set up with reggae, the listeners are sitting on the floor, smoking, or swaying to the beat by the wall. Cross the road and you have strobe lights and electro music loud enough to shatter the windows of neighbouring houses. On each corner, each doorstep, young people are dancing and laughing, talking to strangers and making new friends.

For that is the spirit of this southern city: the people are open to contact, curious about other cultures and always willing to give a helping hand. The locals are friendly; greeting buses drivers with “Have a nice day” and offering friendly words to bar staff and to shop assistants (even when they don’t buy anything). In Toulouse, you always offer a seat “to those less able to stand”, and are very likely to share a glass of wine with or give a cigarette to a passer-by who approaches you with such a request. In the same way, a group of five friends, talking and playing on the guitar by the river, will soon turn into a group of fifteen, as the people around are magnetised to their party.

That is how the warm months are passed by students in Toulouse, and so what happens when winter creeps in? Some like to warm up with a bit of Pastis (an anise-flavoured liqueur), which can be purchased for student prices by the tray-load (along with beer) in bars Café Populaire and Chez Ton Ton. Expect loud music, animated conversations, very sticky floors, and rowdy, yet friendly, behaviour.

With the Pyrenees less than a two hour drive away, trips to the ski slopes are a common activity during the winter season (week-end skiing and snowboarding outings are arranged by the university’s sports societies). In addition, Toulouse is well-connected by trains and coaches to many cities such as Foix, whose fortified castle reveals beautiful views of the mountains, Albi, home to Toulouse-Lautrec, and containing a museum of his work, and Carcassonne, the impressive fortified city and UNESCO World Heritage Site.

How to get there: Flights from London Gatwick with EasyJet from £22.99 one-way

Where to stay: Résidence Jolimont (www.hihostels.com)

Activities :

Get a great view of the city from the top level of the car park at Carmes

Hire a bike and cycle down the Canal du Midi

In the evening during the warm season go down to the banks of the river at la Daurade or la Prairie des Filtres

On a Sunday, go to the farmers market by the church Saint-Aubin, where you can buy everything from jewellery to fresh cheese, bread and wine.

Toulouse is the home base of the European aerospace industry, so visit the Cité de l’Espace (the Space Adventure Park).

Bars:

Café Populaire, Rue de la Colombette. Monday is the busiest night, as the drink deals are the cheapest

Chez Ton Ton, Place St. Pierre. This square has several bars, and is very lively during the week-end. However, it does attract a younger crowd (I.D. checks are rare).

La Cale Sèche, Rue Lèon Gambetta. A great rhum bar, with a large variety of rhum and rhum-inspired drinks at good prices.

La Tireuse, Rue Paragaminières. A favourite for fans of beer.

Eating out

Le Bol Bu, Rue May. A cute crêperie, with good food and a large selection of teas.

Le bon vivre, Place Wilson. Delicious duck dishes.

Saveurs des Tropiques, Place Rouaix. For the coffee lovers : this café has a huge selection of coffees from around the world.

Shopping

Rue Cujas and Rue Peyrolières have some fantastic vintage shops.

The streets leading off, and the area surrounding, Place Saint Georges are great for independent boutiques.

You will find a lot of designer labels on Rue de la Croix Baragnon

Tags: study abroad, Toulouse

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