Show report: Marios Schwab

Marios Schwab has distinguished himself as one of the hottest new designers over the last five years. Since launching his own label in 2005 Schwab has gained a lot of attention, winning the British Fashion Award in 2006 and the Swedish Textile Award in 2007. Following this early success his 2008 spring/summer collection provoked admiration from all. This collection’s focus on the inner structure of garments as outerwear trickled down to every high street store, and since then Marios Schwab has gained the watchful eye of the fashion world.

His 2011 autumn/winter collection continued some of Schwab’s lifelong curiosities. His fascination with the female form was furthered through his simplistic yet sharply cut shapes. Swarovski peals traced the busts of dresses with delicate boning around the waist, creating softness that contrasted with the leather, giving a delicacy to his designs. Schwab’s philosophy that “ornamentation is a necessity within minimal formation” is shown beautifully in the silver buckles and western-style belts which lend an intricacy to the block colors of teal, mustard and deep reds.

Schwab’s designs continued to intrigue and please potential buyers, as the front row demonstrated when eyeing up a particularly beautiful pearl encrusted jumpsuit. However it was impossible to avoid asking where the bolder, brasher designs Marios Schwab was previously adored for had disappeared to. The idea of simplicity within design whilst embracing inner beauty could be found within the collection although this was perhaps at the expense of a rather simplistic catwalk show. However, Schwab continued his success in embodying London’s women’s love affair with edging out classic shapes and taking the rough with the smooth.

Words by ALICE LEWIS